Football adventures: My groundhopping scarf wall

Football and travel have always been two of my greatest passions. Over the years, I've collected scarves from stadiums across Europe — each one a memory of incredible holidays, electric atmospheres, unforgettable goals, and the unique cultures of football fandom.

Here's my scarf wall. It's my textile timeline of groundhopping adventures.

Around Europe

AS Roma 1-0 Como (2025)

£40 Ryanair return flights were our passport to a pre-Christmas Roman holiday, capturing the Eternal City in its best light. Without the summer crush, the Colosseum, Pantheon, and Spanish Steps breathed easier, and the festive illuminations gave the streets a magical glow — we even caught a glimpse of Pope Leo XIV in from of St.Peter's Basilica at the Vatican.

Cesc Fabregas' Como were the visitors on a misty December evening at the Stadio Olimpico. Despite the stadium's shallow bowl and the vast running track that separates fans from the field, the noise from the renowned Curva Sud echoed with a haze of billowing flares and carmine flags, providing a vibrant backdrop to the action.

Despite displaying some bold methods of playing out from the back, Fabregas' side only occasionally broke through Roma's defensive press and created very few chances. A single, arrowing strike in the second half from the Brazilian full back Wesley decided the game.

Witnessing a Roma victory in the magnificent Italian capital was the perfect finale — veni, vidi, vici, indeed.

Córdoba CF 2-0 AD Ceuta (2025)

An Andalusian road trip took us to the historic former heart of the Islamic world in Europe, the city of Córdoba. Famed for its spectacular grand Mosque–Cathedral with 850 interior arches and its long-standing Roman bridge across the Guadalquivir river, we found it a beautiful, vibrant city to visit.

As the warmest city in Europe, the 5pm kickoff at Córdoba's wonderfully-named Estadio Bahrain Victorious Nuevo Arcángel was suitably drenched in the beautiful late afternoon sun. The visitors AD Ceuta were a rising club from the enclave of Ceuta on the northern coast of Morocco, and, as such were the first club I'd seen from the contintent of Africa.

A fast start from Córdoba saw them take a 2-0 lead within the first 25 minutes through Dani Requena and Adrián Fuentes, which delighted the loud, passionate home support. Ceuta struck the woodwork on three occasions and their pacy attack generally looked menacing, albeit without the finishing touch to get themselves back into the game.

I was left pondering why Córdoba had only spent one season in La Liga in the past 50 years. A fabulous city with a well supported and passionate club — perhaps the Gulf-wealth injected by Bahraini owners can take Los Califas to the next level.

Union Berlin 0-1 Espanyol (2025)

A work trip to the Berlin office set up the opportunity to visit the Alte Försterei, Union Berlin's traditional fan-built stadium lying on the edge of the Wuhlheide forest in the east of the city.

Expecting a non-capacity crowd for a pre-season friendly against Espanyol, we were still drinking beer at a bar on the Großer Müggelsee an hour before kickoff. Little did I know that Union fans packed out their stadium even for friendlies and with no room left on the terraces when we arrived 15 minutes before kickoff, we had to make-do with a tippy-toed view at the very back of the Gegengerade. Fortunately, we were positioned right next to a bar and as the beers arrived, my German began to flow with a number of friendly Union fans who were delighted to chat and were kind enough to include us in their rounds!

Unfortunately, the game was totally forgettable. A 38th minute penalty from Espanyol captain Javier Puado gave the Catalonians the win and I was forced to watch former Blues loanee Oliver Burke ambling around for another 45 minutes.

Toulouse 2-1 Rennes (2025)

My two year old son developed two passions at the start of 2025: planes and rockets. We decided to take him to Toulouse, the Occitanie capital and home to both Airbus and the European Space Agency. We found "La Ville Rose" to be a fantastic city with its charming old town of brick facades, pretty urban parks, nice riverside spaces next to the Garonne and excellent transport throughout the city.

Rennes were the visitors to Stadium de Toulouse, a stadium which I still remember fondly from the first Panini World Cup 1998 sticker album I completed - the first World Cup I followed passionately as a child.

The largest student city in France, I was surrounded by young fans from all over the country, who all spoke perfect English. They tipped me off to the possibility of ordering beers to your seat via an app, which was very welcome as I sat in the late afternoon sun, quenching my thirst with Caporal IPA - the product of a local Toulousain brewery.

The beer tasted even better as the atmosphere exploded when Aron Dønnum's laser-like strike gave Les Violets a 2-1 victory with just 8 minutes to spare.

Sevilla 0-2 Real Sociedad (2024)

Travelling north from the Costa del Sol, we headed for the "The Pearl of Andalusia", Seville. The journey was stunning, navigating the picturesque winding mountain roads of the Sierra Nevada before descending into the endless olive groves of the Guadalquivir plain. Seville is a jewel of a city, with beautifully-kept, child-friendly parks, riverfront bars serving ice-cold Cruzcampo and impressive iconic landmarks. Visiting his tomb in the Catedral de Sevilla also completed my own Christopher Columbus journey, having visited his birthplace in Genoa a few years prior.

The atmosphere at the Ramón Sánchez Pizjuán started in electric fashion, but waned quickly as it became clear that Sevilla's six Europa League titles were a distant memory. The home side looked poor and disjointed, easily turned over by a Real Sociedad team clearly in the ascendancy for the majority of the match. Takefusa Kubo was particularly impressive from the right wing, capping a fine performance with a goal for La Real.

The Sevillanos sitting next to me generously shared their "pipas" (sunflower seeds) with me and bemoaned bad rercuitment for their poor performances. Mikel Oyarzabal added a second from the penalty spot in the second half and Los Rojiblancos failed to muster any response.

At the final whistle, I waded through the discarded seed shells on the terraces back to my wife and son, who had been happily playing in a playground right next to the ground.

Ajax 1-0 Heerenveen (2024)

After 4 nights in Rotterdam, we hopped on a NS train to visit our good friend who recently launched a wonderful café in Amsterdam. We'd visited the city before, but he'd very kindly organised a boat trip for us to take in the aspect from the famous canals, drifting along the Prinsengracht and passing icons like the Rijksmuseum and Anne Frank House.

I'm always envious of the lifestyle in Amsterdam, and joining the stream of cyclists pedaling along the Amstel to the Johan Cruyff Arena felt like a proper pilgrimage in search of the home of Total Football. The season opener against Heerenveen marked Robin van Persie's competitive debut as a manager and came off the back of Ajax's worst season in the modern Eredivisie era that had caused violent protests at the stadium.

The game was as uninspiring as a warm Heineken, with a solitary Kristian Hlynsson strike on the stroke of half-time proving enough to secure a narrow win. The cycle ride home with my mate was arguably more exhilarating than the 90 minutes we'd witnessed.

Feyenoord 1-1 Willem II (2024)

Rotterdam defied my expections. Instead of a dirty, industrial shipyard city, we found a vibrant, cosmopolitan hub, where modern dockyards give way to the urban oasis of Het Park and the timeless Dutch-postcard windmills of Kinderdijk. Its spectacular modern station gives great connectivity to explore the whole of South Holland, where we spend time in Delft, Leiden and The Hague - even spending an afternoon at the most beloved beach resort in the Netherlands at Scheveningen.

Feyenoord's De Kuip - "The Tub" - is an iconic cauldron within European football and a stadium I had wanted to visit for many years. Willem II, named after my namesake from the House of Orange, were the visitors having won the Eerste Divisie title the previous season.

Feyenoord looked to be cruising after Antoni Milambo hooked an opener into the top corner in the first half. De club aan de Maas spent the rest of the match pushing for a second, with impressive physical striker Santiago Gimenez squandering a number of chances from good positions.

However, eight minutes from time, a long punt turned into a game of chicken between striker Kyan Vaesen and goalkeeper Timo Wellenreuther's fists. Vaesen won - narrowly keeping his head attached - and celebrated the ball tricking into the back of the net by lying supine on the ground and waving his arms furiously. A classic sucker punch for the hosts, but a super, chaotic Eredivisie debut for me.

Juventus 3-2 Frosinone (2024)

Nothing says "Happy 10th Anniversary" like whisking your wife away on a romantic trip to Italy, right?

Turin, with its FIAT headquarters, is a city that mirrors Birmingham's automotive soul, but instead dresses it in grand Baroque architecture and elegant colonnades. The view from the hills of Superga across the river Po towards the dominating beauty of the Mole Antonelliana is a sight unmatched in the West Midlands.

While the city remained shrouded in cloud for much of our visit, the skies parted just as we arrived at the Allianz Stadium, revealing the snow-capped mountains that once gave the Stadio delle Alpi its name. The atmosphere was electric, building from a heavy rock & roll pre-show to a spine-tingling rendition of "Storia Di Un Grande Amore".

The match itself was a rollercoaster; after Dušan Vlahović 3rd minute strike, underdogs Frosinone shocked the home crowd by hitting back twice to take a surprise lead, only for Vlahović to level matters with a sharp finish before the break. The visitors defended heroically and seemed destined for a point, but deep in injury time, long-serving academy graduate Daniele Rugani stole in at the far post to snatch a dramatic victory for I Bianconeri.

A last-gasp win for the hosts, and thankfully, my "old ball and chain" quite enjoyed meeting The Old Lady.

Inter Milan 4-0 Viktoria Plzeň (2022)

I had visited Milan previously in the sweltering heat of summer 2012 and hated it — too hot, too concrete. Returning in 2022 with my wife, I finally connected with its rhythm. From the Gothic spires of the Duomo and the historic grounds of Sforza Castle, to the modern developments of Tre Torri and the vertical forests of Bosco Verticale, Milan is a world-class city that has something for everyone. We even escaped the hustle & bustle for idyllic boat days on Lakes Como and Maggiore.

The true icon of Milan remains the San Siro — a concrete cathedral etched into my earliest footballing memories by the FIFA Road to the World Cup 98 intro, featuring my morning alarm ringtone for many years - Blur’s "Song 2". Climbing those endless spiral towers to the top tier, my pregnant wife was thrilled to find herself surrounded by the rowdy, herbally fragranced ultras of the Curva Nord.

On the pitch, Inter’s fluid 3-5-2 was a masterclass; Dimarco and Dumfries terrorized the flanks while Barella ran the show in the centre. Viktoria Plzeň — representing the spiritual home of my favorite style of beer — had no answer to the power of I Nerazzurri. A parade of former Premier League stars — Henrikh Mkhitaryan, Edin Džeko, and Romelu Lukaku—sealed a comfortable 4-0 rout to extend their lead at the top of the Champions League group.

Yet, for all its majesty, the San Siro's lack of amenities and particularly abominable toilets are a stark reminder that this icon is no longer fit for purpose. When it is finally time to say goodbye, I’m just glad I paid my respects.

Genoa 1-1 Brescia (2022)

After a 90 minute train from Milano Centrale, the waves of the beautiful Mediterranean appear in Genoa. We spent the morning meandering through the tight streets of the caruggi (old town), noting that in this famous merchant port city, they are very proud of their St. George's cross — marking every renaissance palace and ornate church in "La Superba".

On the way to the game, we visited Christopher Columbus' birth house. Like their own famous son, Italy's oldest football club were discovering their own New World: Serie B, relegated after 15 years in Serie A.

Shared between Genoa CFC (Cricket and Football Club) and Sampdoria, Stadio Luigi Ferraris is showing its age — like many Italian stadiums last renovated for World Cup 1990. The toilets may have been pitch black, but the soul of the stadium was alight, as the Gradinata Nord ultras waved their flags and made a noise.

Former Blues manager Pep Clotet brought his Brescia team to the Ligurian coast. After Filip Jagiełło drove Genoa ahead with a low shot from the edge of the box, the game remained pretty even. However, it turned in the 77th minute when Milan Badelj received a second yellow. Cue the siege.

Brescia had one ruled out for offside, and kept hammering away. In the 94th minute, a corner caused absolute chaos, and centre back Andrea Cistana somehow forced it home to peg Genoa back to a draw.

We recovered from the last-gasp drama with delicious focaccia and Pesto Genovese by the pretty old port, before heading back to Milan.

FC Copenhagen 3-1 FC Nordsjælland (2019)

Bags dropped, we hit the heart of the Danish Meatpacking District immediately. Warpigs Brewpub was the destination, and my father-in-law promptly christened the trip by spilling his first £7 pint of the holiday. Copenhagen's majesty lies in its palaces — Amalienborg, Christiansborg, and Rosenborg — and on the shimmering blue waters of its harbours. While the statue of the Little Mermaid receives hype, the world's first theme park - Tivoli Gardens - and the views of the city from the top of the Rundetaarn are more impressive.

Parken Stadium is not an architectural beauty, but it's a highly functional footballing venue. With the retractable roof covered it may become a cauldron of noise, but in a balmy 20°C Scandinavian heatwave, the roof remained open to a half-empty crowd.

FC Nordsjælland made the short trip to the capital from Farum with their "Right to Dream" academy talents, showcasing an exciting Ghanaian attacking trio of Ibrahim Sadiq, Isaac Atanga, and Mohammed Kudus.

After Ulrik Jenssen headed an innocuous cross into his own net, the lively Sadiq equalised with a shot from distance that beat the keeper at his near post. Yet, it was the Cypriot sharpshooter Pieros Soteriou who was the match winner, striking twice in two second-half minutes to secure victory for the capital club.

I celebrated the win by reuniting with family in the free-spirited commune of Christiania, naturally over a few more ridiculously expensive beers. Just beers.

Ferencváros (P) 1-1 Vasas SC (2017)

Budapest is a really likeable, relaxed city. Touring the stunning Gothic revival parliament building, sailing down the Danube on the city boats, taking a stroll to the Széchenyi baths and drinking cheap beers in ruin bars that look like a tornado hit a vintage shop - we loved the vibe. Venturing up into the Buda Hills for a journey on the communist-era railway staffed by children and taking the János-hegy chairlift back down was a particular highlight.

Our trip coincided with the Magyar Kupa (Hungarian Cup) final at Ferencváros' Groupama Arena - the famous green and white of Ferencváros had home advantage against their cross-city rivals Vasas SC. Passports and fingerprint scans were required at the ticket office - a stringent security measure I'd never encountered before to watch a game of football, designed to prevent touts rather than hooligans.

Roland Varga's low 35-yard free-kick bobbled into the bottom corner past an embarrassed Vasas goalkeeper, only for Tamás Kulcsár's poacher's instinct to peg back Ferencváros and force extra time - then penalties.

Ferencváros won 5-4, which meant we saw 39-year-old Zoltan Gera — former West Brom midfielder & Hungarian legend — lift the final trophy of his career.

FK Austria Wien 0-1 Rapid Wien (2017)

Vienna — the home of Mozart, Strauss, the beautiful blue Danube and giant schnitzels of impossible proportion. We waltzed through a concert in the orangery of Schönbrunn Palace and ate delicious warm Apfelstrudel with cold ice cream in its expansive gardens. From the panoramic views across the city high-up in Kahlenberg, to the tiered gardens of the Belvedere Palace, Vienna is a city I love.

This trip came with a bonus: our good friends Sam and Tara happened to be in the Austrian capital at the same time. Fellow football fans, they joined us for the Vienna derby.

Austria Wien were hosting Rapid at the 50,000 seater Ernst-Happel national stadium while their home underwent renovation, which gave the fixture a slightly strange, big-occasion feel. Die Veilchen's violet contingent was comfortably outnumbered by Rapid's green and white masses, though they compensated with enough purple flares to mask the empty seats.

As for the match itself, Philipp Schobesberger nodded in a scruffy second half winner. But honestly, the details are fuzzy — we'd put away a fair few Ottakringers through the course of the afternoon. Post-match, we headed on to the Prater for some rides, more beer and schnitzels.

Fiorentina 2-4 Borussia Mönchengladbach (2017)

The view from Piazzale Michelangelo is Florence in a single frame — Brunelleschi's cathedral dome commanding the skyline, terracotta rooftops tumbling toward the River Arno, the Cradle of the Renaissance laid out beneath you. We walked the medieval paved streets on the cultural circuit: Michelangelo's David at the Galleria dell'Accademia, the goldsmith-lined Ponte Vecchio, the Palazzo Medici's frescoed halls, and the sprawling green escape of the Boboli Gardens.

The Stadio Artemio Franchi is in total contrast to the beauty of Florence. Its spiral towers and hulking "Marathon Tower" are unmistakable Fascist-era brutalism. The oddly D-shaped bowl widely rumoured to honour Il Duce, Benito Mussolini, himself. Behind the curved ends, Fiorentina's ultras were so recessed they might as well have been watching from the car park. We fared better with pitchside seats for Fiorentina's Europa League second leg Round of 32 tie against Gladbach.

La Viola flew out of the blocks. Nikola Kalinić opened the scoring, before Jannik Vestergaard air-kicked a clearance for Borja Valero to walk in a second. 2-0 and cruising. Happy Florentine fans all around.

Then it unravelled. Gladbach's excellent captain Lars Stindl helped himself to a hat-trick, on-loan Chelsea defender Andreas Christensen powered in a header, and just minutes after half-time it was 4-2 to Gladbach.

Fiorentina's European dream descended into Dante's Inferno. We moved on the next day — first to Da Vinci's birthplace in the Tuscan hills, then to Pisa, where the tower's ominous lean felt appropriate after watching Fiorentina's collapse.

Sparta Prague 3-2 SønderjyskE (2016)

Letná Stadium overlooking the Czech capital. Sparta's red-clad support is among the most intense in central Europe. Proper old-school European football atmosphere.

Olympique Marseille 0-1 Athletic Bilbao (2016)

The Vélodrome is a volcano. OM is more than a club in Marseille — it's a way of life. The blue and white scarves raised in unison, the Mediterranean passion, the sheer noise. French football at its most intense.

Paris Saint-Germain 5-0 Toulouse (2015)

The Parc des Princes before the superstar era reached its peak. Parisian ultras creating chaos in the stands. Say what you will about PSG's ownership, but the atmosphere in that compact bowl is undeniable.

Real Madrid 1-0 Bayern München (2014)

The Santiago Bernabéu — footballing royalty. Los Blancos and their endless trophy cabinet. Standing where so many legends have played was humbling. The all-white kit, the Champions League anthems, the galáctico tradition.

RB Leipzig 0-1 FC Ingolstadt (2014)

Before they reached the Bundesliga. The Red Bull Arena and German football's controversial project in its relative infancy. Fascinating to see where they started versus where they ended up.

Dynamo Dresden 1-3 Union Berlin (2013)

The Rudolf-Harbig-Stadion and eastern German football's most passionate fanbase. The yellow wall of Dresden's K-Block is legendary. This club represents resistance, identity, and unbreakable spirit.

Eintracht Frankfurt 1-1 Fortuna Düsseldorf (2011)

The Waldstadion (now Deutsche Bank Park) and one of Germany's most passionate fanbases. Frankfurt's eagles soar with some of the best choreography in European football. Years before their Europa League triumph.

Alemannia Aachen 0-0 AZ Alkmaar (2005)

A UEFA Cup away day from my youth. The split scarf tradition at its finest. European nights, travelling with fellow fans, and the excitement of continental competition. This one takes me right back.

Also watched Aachen 2-3 Unterhaching at the old Tivoli.

Birmingham City

Also within my scarf wall are multiple sentimental scarves from my beloved Birmingham City.

Birmingham City — Carling Cup Winners (2011)

The greatest day. St Andrew's to Wembley, and Obafemi Martins' last-gasp winner against Arsenal. This scarf represents pure, unbridled joy. The moment that made every Blues fan believe in miracles.

Birmingham City — Trevor Francis Tribute (2024)

A special scarf honouring the legend that is Trevor Francis. Britain's first million-pound player and a Blues icon. This one holds extra meaning for any Birmingham fan.

Birmingham City — My first scarf (~1996)

Where it all began. My first Blues scarf, my first love. St Andrew's, the Tilton Road End, and a lifetime of loyalty forged in childhood. Keep Right On.

Every scarf tells a story. Every trip expands the soul. Football is the universal language that opens doors across cultures and continents. Here's to many more grounds, many more scarves, and many more unforgettable memories.

Keep Right On. 💙